Story & photos by Dr. Michael Lim The Travelling Gourmet- All rights reserved
The resourceful Travelling Gourmet goes to an island near Venice to discover…
MARVELLOUS Venissa. This amazing agriturismo with just six rooms and suites is where I am living “la dolce vita” in the style of the Venetians centuries ago. My suite is super comfy and decorated in the colourful avant garde style of the spoof spy movie “Austin Powers International Man of Mystery“. This low profile but very exclusive agriturismo blends in well with the other historic buildings on Mazzorbo island, and its name plate is so small and inconspicuous, it can be easily overlooked.
With Technical Director Desiderio Bisol and Dorona wine of ancient Venezia!
Here, I was privileged to taste the very 1st vintage of the amazing wine relished by the Doge and his nobles centuries ago, with affable & knowledgeable Desiderio Bisol, the Technical Director of Bisol wines which have been around since 1542. This is the only place in the world where you will find the ancient Dorona grape which is now used by Bisol to make an outstanding white wine. The lowlying vineyard framed by the ancient Campanile (clock tower) is 1m to -0.1m high with chalky and clay soil. The production is only 1.10kg of grapes per vine! During its production there is maceration of 30 days with manual punching down. Venissa 2010 made with the grape called Dorona or the golden grape after it almost became extinct, has the bouquet of dried flowers, hazelnuts and camomilla (chamomile) and mineral flavours with a sapido (savoury) finish. I adore the nuances of wild honey. The young vines are 5 years old & the few remaining vines were actually recovered from Torcello Island nearby. This rich golden coloured wine is like no other white wine you have ever tasted. Just close your eyes when you taste it and you could almost imagine…that it is a red wine. The medium persistence is very satisfying. It has 13% alcohol bv & extract of 28g/l in a 50cl bottle. I predict that the quality and elegance will only improve as the years go by! The label is made of pure 24 karat Gold leaf! Crafted by the modern day descendants of the ancient Berta Battiloro famiglia, the gold leaf is applied by hand and then fired in the Murano island glassworks of Carlo Moretti!
Examining Dorona Grapes…
Perfect with Chef Paola Budel’s cuisine of local specialities and ingredients including sea snails and mussels from the Lagoon as well as herbs like thyme and rosemary from her own herb garden. Here in this wonderful sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of Venice, you enjoy life like the ancient Venetian nobles used to in days of yore. Many food lovers travel all the way here to done in Paola’s Ristorante, also called Venissa, simply because they want to taste and enjoy true-blue Venetian specialitata…marinated Tuna in Balsamico, Scampi, Scallops, Anchovy, Mussels with Pomodoro (tomato) & Sueda (sea herb), Gamberetti with sweet red onions…mmm Recently, Venissa Ristorante has been awarded its 1st Michelin Stelle (Star)! Complimenti Chef Paola!
Preciosa Wine of the Venetian Nobility!
Every morning, I woke up refreshed and really looked forward to ambling down to the alfresco terrace for something nice to eat with lots of piping hot Cappuccino! It was hot and sunny in August with beautiful baby blue skies. Time for la colazione or breakfast…
La Colazione with a view…
Breakfast here with a view of the 1 hectare vinyard of well groomed Dorona grapes and sitting next to fragrant lavanda (lavender) is a heavenly experience.
Il Turista Buongustaio & Chef Paola and her Pastry Chef/Baker
Hard working Chef Paola with her infectious smile, makes the most healthy yet delicious breakfast that leaves your palate very happy. Raynaud Limoges porcelain-ware and Sambonet cutlery, home made Peach Jam, luscious and sexy claret red Ciliegiole (cherry) Jam (my favourite), a cocktail of Apple, Grapefruit, Pear & Orange Juices, Yoghurt sprinkled with Orange Zest, piping hot home-baked daily Croissants, Toast, Walnut Rye bread, Peach Torta (cake), Kiwi, Melone (Honeydew) and Watermelon medley…Not ot mention freshly plucked Dorona grapes! O Madonna! Super YUMMY!
Seeing is believing…YUMMY!
From here I also took time to visit Ernest Hemingway’s favourite hideaway when he came to Venice to hunt wild ducks in the Lagoon. It is the famous and secluded Locanda Cipriani…but that is another story.
Tenuta Venissa
Fondamante Santa Caterina, 3
30170 Isola di Mazzorbo-Burano
Tel: +39 041 52 72 281
Ristorante Venissa has 1 Michelin Star
Venissa to the Danieli
From Venissa, I took a speedy water taxi to that magical hotel feartured in the hit movie, “The Tourist”. And now I am in delightful Hotel Danieli which is so incredibly luxurious, especially my Greta Garbo suite, the very last word in opulence! Please see my feature “Delightful, Delicious Danieli!” {:-)
The Travelling Gourmet 